Red Bike Publishing Merchandise Shop
I just bought a 69 VW Beetle. It's a great car. Here's what I'm doing to keep it fit.
Showing posts with label Volkswagen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Volkswagen. Show all posts
Saturday, July 6, 2013
Sunday, March 31, 2013
Tail Pipe Chrome Exhaust
Clang! That's the noise I heard. I knew something was wrong, but did not know exactly what the problem could be. It wasn't until I looked in the rear view mirror and saw a tail pipe tumbling end over end and cars were swerving out of the way, that I understood what was happening. A second later, the perfectly humming engine began it's throaty roar. Not a bad sound actually.
I'd never thrown a tail pipe before, so I started searching the internet and asked experts like my father. Yep, I'd thrown a tailpipe and yes, it's supposed to be loud like that. However, it's just noise and won't hurt the engine. An no, I don't need a new exhaust, just a new tailpipe.
I ordered my tailpipe from www.westcoastmetric.com and it arrived in a few days. I actually ordered two so that I could have a brand new shiny set. However, I only ordered one set of clamps and had to reuse one of the older sets.
The job was easy, just loosen the old clamps, slide the tailpipe into the muffler, tighten the new clamps and your off.
Be sure to insert the tailpipe as far as it will go. Also, install the clamp so that it covers the tailpipe and muffler lips. If not, the tailpipe won't stay on.
I'd never thrown a tail pipe before, so I started searching the internet and asked experts like my father. Yep, I'd thrown a tailpipe and yes, it's supposed to be loud like that. However, it's just noise and won't hurt the engine. An no, I don't need a new exhaust, just a new tailpipe.
I ordered my tailpipe from www.westcoastmetric.com and it arrived in a few days. I actually ordered two so that I could have a brand new shiny set. However, I only ordered one set of clamps and had to reuse one of the older sets.
The job was easy, just loosen the old clamps, slide the tailpipe into the muffler, tighten the new clamps and your off.
Be sure to insert the tailpipe as far as it will go. Also, install the clamp so that it covers the tailpipe and muffler lips. If not, the tailpipe won't stay on.
 |
| image courtesy of http://www.clubvw.org.au/oldart016 |
Saturday, March 23, 2013
Good looking dash area-Bamboo shelf for 69 VW Beetle
I just
received the bamboo shelf from Jbugs.com I
ordered recently. It got here in no time and looks really nice and I can’t wait
to use it. I set it up just above my drink holder as well. I can’t wait to
actually be able to keep the bug clean on the inside by the storage space
concealed under the dash board. It looks really good too.
Beetle parts
never come with instructions, so you have to search them out. This bamboo shelf
came with four shelf brackets and 8 screws. I was planning to drill and screw,
but a thought occurred to me; why not see if it fits.
It did fit
and looks great. The best news is I didn’t have to use the hardware. For some
reason the shelf fits so snug (I believe it is the thick carpet) that it is in
for good. I’ll test it on the road and make sure it doesn’t vibrate loose. But
for now, it looks solid.
I’ll be
moving speakers and radio to different locations so the bamboo shelf can be
better featured.
Wednesday, March 20, 2013
Heater hoses
I have been working on the trunk area and am almost
finished. My current project is completing the installation of all hoses to the
fresh air box. Some of these hoses are for fresh air and the others, for
defrost.
The hoses leading to the heat tunnels are important, and the most difficult to replace. These are to the left and right of the trunk on the passenger and driver side. Basically, they run between trunk and the door, down the length of the door where the door hinges are. They are hard to get to and made of paper. Chances are, yours might be just as shredded as mine were and need replacing.
The important thing is to ensure you don’t throw away the old ones until the replacements arrive. I’ve purchased mine from both Jbugs.com and westcoastmetric.com.
Here’s how they should be set up:When installing, clean out all disintegrated hose material down and around the heat channel. These run up behind the trunk and along the left and right sides of the floor boards. There is a viewing port about an inch in diameter on the post just above the bottom door hinges and toward the wall between the seats and trunk (you’ll have to pull back the carpet to find them). Use a screw driver, knife or something sharp to scrape away the old paper hose and glue. Use a shop vacuum to suck away the many years of junk that may have fallen into it. I found old pencils, bolts and waded up old papers.
Next cut the hoses to the proper lenght. They always come too long, so be prepared to cut them to the right size. The hose leading from the plastic hose junction piece to the bottom should be about a foot and a half long. Measure and install those hoses first as they are the most difficult to install. The ones I bought were not wide enough to fit over the channel or the plastic piece. I had to improvise tape the hose to the plastic piece. At the heater channel, I taped a smaller diameter piece to taper it into the hole. It wasn’t an easy fix, but it’s functioning.
Then hook up the other hoses. Be sure to slowly close the
hood once installed. If any of the hoses are in the way, the trunk will crush
them.
 |
|
Before, vacuum cleaner hoses, rust, taped up hoses, broken fresh air box. Time to get to work. |
The hoses leading to the heat tunnels are important, and the most difficult to replace. These are to the left and right of the trunk on the passenger and driver side. Basically, they run between trunk and the door, down the length of the door where the door hinges are. They are hard to get to and made of paper. Chances are, yours might be just as shredded as mine were and need replacing.
The important thing is to ensure you don’t throw away the old ones until the replacements arrive. I’ve purchased mine from both Jbugs.com and westcoastmetric.com.
Here’s how they should be set up:When installing, clean out all disintegrated hose material down and around the heat channel. These run up behind the trunk and along the left and right sides of the floor boards. There is a viewing port about an inch in diameter on the post just above the bottom door hinges and toward the wall between the seats and trunk (you’ll have to pull back the carpet to find them). Use a screw driver, knife or something sharp to scrape away the old paper hose and glue. Use a shop vacuum to suck away the many years of junk that may have fallen into it. I found old pencils, bolts and waded up old papers.
 |
| This is from Samba.com. The diagram is for a 72-73 beetle, but it provides a plan for my '69 |
Next cut the hoses to the proper lenght. They always come too long, so be prepared to cut them to the right size. The hose leading from the plastic hose junction piece to the bottom should be about a foot and a half long. Measure and install those hoses first as they are the most difficult to install. The ones I bought were not wide enough to fit over the channel or the plastic piece. I had to improvise tape the hose to the plastic piece. At the heater channel, I taped a smaller diameter piece to taper it into the hole. It wasn’t an easy fix, but it’s functioning.
 |
| Hoses are cut and installed. Not pretty, but functional. The tape is there because I crushed the hose with the trunk hinge. |
 |
|
The trunk is now complete. |
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)