Getting to the Metal; Paint is Off

I’ve managed to strip almost every bit of paint from the beetle. After reviewing many videos on Youtube, I decided to go back to chemicals to remove the paint. The grinder is just too exhausting.

For the task I've used a few gallons of Klean-Strip Aircraft Paint Remover. The new sheet metal that came with a protective coating were simple. Just put on aircraft paint remover and scrub off with a green pad or other coarse pad such as Brillo. The fenders, body and anything with 40 years of old paint on top of old paint required multiple applications.

The 1969 VW Beetle had about 4 different colors from shades of green, blue, and red. For the fenders and doors, I eventually needed a grinder with wire brush to get of the mounds of body putty. These body fillers were used primarily to fill in dents that I could easily pound out with my Wilmar Hammer and Dolly set. 

.That’s the benefit of a total vehicle tear down. I can actually get to all areas and not worry about taping off areas or messing anything up. Some of the body filler covered torn metal.

I used my new found welding skill to weld over any torn areas. The grinding skill I picked up helped smooth out the welds.

Fenders were once green, and blue, and red.....

After removing paint, had to grind putty.

Holes in door to be repaired.

                                 

Another tear to weld

A big tear in the fender

After welding and grinding. Nice and smooth

Heater hoses

I have been working on the trunk area and am almost finished. My current project is completing the installation of all hoses to the fresh air box. Some of these hoses are for fresh air and the others, for defrost.

Before, vacuum cleaner hoses, rust, taped up hoses, broken fresh air box. 
Time to get to work.

The hoses leading to the heat tunnels are important, and the most difficult to replace. These are to the left and right of the trunk on the passenger and driver side. Basically, they run between trunk and the door, down the length of the door where the door hinges are. They are hard to get to and made of paper. Chances are, yours might be just as shredded as mine were and need replacing.
The important thing is to ensure you don’t throw away the old ones until the replacements arrive. I’ve purchased mine from both Jbugs.com and westcoastmetric.com.
Here’s how they should be set up:When installing, clean out all disintegrated hose material down and around the heat channel. These run up behind the trunk and along the left and right sides of the floor boards. There is a viewing port about an inch in diameter on the post just above the bottom door hinges and toward the wall between the seats and trunk (you’ll have to pull back the carpet to find them). Use a screw driver, knife or something sharp to scrape away the old paper hose and glue. Use a shop vacuum to suck away the many years of junk that may have fallen into it. I found old pencils, bolts and waded up old papers.

This is from Samba.com. The diagram is for a 72-73 beetle, 
but it provides a plan for my '69

Next cut the hoses to the proper lenght. They always come too long, so be prepared to cut them to the right size. The hose leading from the plastic hose junction piece to the bottom should be about a foot and a half long. Measure and install those hoses first as they are the most difficult to install. The ones I bought were not wide enough to fit over the channel or the plastic piece. I had to improvise tape the hose to the plastic piece. At the heater channel, I taped a smaller diameter piece to taper it into the hole. It wasn’t an easy fix, but it’s functioning. 

Hoses are cut and installed. Not pretty, but functional.                                                                                 The tape is there because I crushed the hose with the trunk hinge.

 Then hook up the other hoses. Be sure to slowly close the hood once installed. If any of the hoses are in the way, the trunk will crush them.

The trunk is now complete.

Proud new owner

I just bought a 69 VW Beetle from a man who restored it to driving condition. I love driving it around, but it still needs some work. I bought it for $1500 and understood it may still need some “polishing”. I am enjoying fixing it up and learning how it works. I’ll use this blog to share our story.

First things first and that’s safety. I drove my kids around the block and one of the dry rotted tires went flat. I called around to see what would fit and none of the big box companies could help. They didn’t understand the small tire size. It wasn’t until I called Big 10 Tires that they could help me out. I had to go a little wider, but there were able to put the right ones on. When I pulled up with the bug, I got the royal treatment. They loved my car.

Now that I’ve got new tires, I drove around to work and around the neighborhood. I got a lot of thumbs up and encouragement. It’s so nice. However, I have to find out what’s making me dizzy.

Apparently exhaust has been leaking into the cabin, so I climbed in back to see what was up. It wasn’t until I removed the rear luggage storage carpet and insulation material that I discovered the deal; rusted floor pan.

Next I rip out the entire interior and find more rust and holes. At the same time I go into the trunk to find out what could be causing air to rush in through my ash gray and other areas.

I also discover water standing under the trunk carpeting. The problem; A missing drain hose from the fresh air box. I follow that line and do research and discover that it’s a large problem; water and air leaks through this system.

In the mean time, I’ve been making small improvements by replacing old control knobs on the dash and the horn ring and cover on the steering wheel.

Here are my favorite stores online:

www. westcoastmetric.com

www. jbugs.com

http://www.vw-wagenwerks.com/servlet/Categorieswww.wolfsburgwest.com

Visit often as I will document my journey to a further restoration of this magnificent car.