Finishing Some Chasis Work

I cleaned all the rotors on the outside to make them look nice and hold off on future rust until I can buy new rotors. Since the work is pretty easy, I'll save the new brakes and rotors until the project is done. I used a drill with a wire brush attachment to clean the rotors. I ground all the surface rust off, cleaned and painted with high temperature black caliper paint. They really look good.


The chassis is pretty much done where rust has been ground out and small holes repaired with POR-15 paint and fiberglass matting. A strong, waterproof bond on the floor pan is what's left. I've removed  most of the bolts, cleaned an repainted them as well. The only thing I couldn't get done was the removal and installation of the CV boots. Those bolts are just too tight and I keep stripping the star fittings.

My last chassis project is the wheels. I went to the local tire changing shop (Top-Line Tires) and paid $5.00 each to remove five tires. My plan is to clean the paint and rust off the rims and repaint in ivory powder coating. I read there is a company htat will do that for me, but online prices were $200 to $1000 per wheel. I'll take this project on myself.
I brought the wheels home and applied an environmental

citrus paint remover product called Citristrip. After the first application, I waited 24 hours and scrubbed with a wire sponge. I applied a second and third application before I was satisfied. The process worked great and now all I have to do is get some deep rust of a few of the rims.

Vintage VW Beetle-Reinstalling the Anti-Sway Bar

Reassembling the front end assembly takes a lot of guts. Just like the rest of the project, breaking systems in to subsystems and subsystems into components isn't that difficult. Determination, limited know how, de-greaser, scrubbers and grinders work well.

Putting it back together is another story.

I mean, I have the basics, turn the bolts in the opposite direction as when you took it off. However, touch, feel and experience play a big part. Removing a heavy object is easier than putting it back on. However, the same gravity that eased removal now fights against an install. You need more engineering and help to put parts back on.

This latest project had me pretty intimidated. The repair manual shows how to remove the sway bar, bushings and metal sleeve. A little reading and you realize that's just brute force. Unbend a fastener and pound it off. But the book also states to throw away the old sleeve.

Why throw something away that is perfectly good?

Here is what the original sleeve looks like:

Metal Sleeve Before Cleaning

Sleeve fastener connected to one side of sleeve.
You can see the tab that will later need to bend down.

  

To save money, I ground the rust off, prepped to surface and repainted it. Now, I'm ready to face the really intimidating part; putting that sleeve back on.

After searching the web, I saw there was no real advice here other than to buy a vice-grip sheet metal clamp (looks like pliers, but with wide pinching surfaces) squeeze the ends together and slide on the tabbed fastener:

I couldn't find any locally and decided to use regular old adjustable "C" clamps. They worked like a champ. So, here's what I did (Use this method if your front end assembly and control arms are remounted onto the chassis:

1. Clean all parts

2. Paint all parts

3. Slide bushings onto sway bar. Largest bushings go first on both ends of sway bar. Bushings are made with uneven ends. Just ensure that the narrowest areas of each bushing (just look and you'll see) point toward the end of the sway bar. If not, physics and angle will prevent easy application of the sleeve.

4. Hold up sway bar onto each lower control bar so that the ends point down. The top of the sway bar should be just in front of the lower two bolts that hold the front end assembly onto the frame.

5. Pick a side, any side. Slide the largest metal sleeve onto the largest bushing. The open end of the sleeve faces down at the front end of the car.

6. Apply and tighten a "C" clamp to bring the open ends together. Slide the sleeve fastener with tab end up from the bottom of the sleeve. You might need a hammer and chisel here.

7. Hammer the tab so that it closes around the bushing.

8. Use same process for all remaining bushings and sleeves

9. Repaint any damage from the install.

Cleaning the Chassis

Clean the chassis:

1. Pressure wash if possible use degreaser to clean off caked on dirt, mud and grease. Mine had 43 years' worth. I actually found a steering gear box under some of that stuff 

2. Use a power drill, stone, wire or other grinding attachment.

3. Grind away.

4. Turn chassis on its side and continue grinding on the bottom 5. Once free of grime, repair any rust holes with miracle paint, POR-15 or other similar product with fiberglass material.

6. Repaint to taste engine, chassis, transmission, etc, with enamel or other resistant and tough paint.

7. Clean and restore old bolts and washer when possible.

8. Remove and replace ball joints, tie rod ends, shocks, CV joint boots, etc.

9. Restore hardware, pedal assembly, brake lines, master cylinder etc.  and other components.

Ball Joints are the Show Stoppers So Far

Prioritizing work is the key. You won't be able to work on everything at once. You also won't be able to work some components until others are first addressed. Take for example the chassis. My pivot point to finishing the chassis is removing and installing the ball joints. Once they are installed, the rest of the chassis can be re-assembled. If not installed, the rest of the chassis has to wait. To the point, I can't re-install the tie rods until then, because the ball joints are critical to the process.

I attempted to change out the ball joints myself. This proved nearly impossible. I tried the pickle fork method, I tried small pressing tools, I tried heating up the elements, but nothing worked. 

After shopping around, I found a local shop, D&K who would do it for $20 per ball joint (labor only). I provided the ball joints ordered from EBay. If your VW beetle is in many pieces, as mine is, the best course of action may be breaking it down to the smallest components. For me, that meant removing the control arms from the front end assembly. This proved a unique opportunity to clean and remove rust from new areas.

If chassis is separate from the body, try this:

1.  Unfasten brake lines to the wheels

2. Remove the tie rods

3. Remove the wheels

4. Remove sway bar

      a.  Use a screw driver to pry grommet up from metal sleeve fastened to the rubber bushings (total of four; two large and two small)

     

 b. Use hammer to tap off metal sleeve fastener

      c. Slide off metal sleeve

      d. Remove sway bar

      e. Clean and repaint sway bar, metal sleeve and fasteners 

4. Loosen bolt at each control arm.

 

5. Use hex wrench to remove bolt completely. A box wrench helps provide extra power for stubborn bolts.

6. Pull out control arm. Careful, if maintained properly, it is greasy. You might also have to tap it gently with a hammer.

Remove entire front end assembly for cleaning.

1.  Jack up the car and put a jack stand under the chassis.

2.  Remove the tires

3.  Four bolts hold the front suspension assembly to the chassis. Remove bolts and the assembly separates. Careful, it's heavy.

Looking for Dirt-Cleaning up the 1969 VW Chassis

I am undertaking tremendous work (at least for a beginner). Although I feel that I am diving in deep, I could probably go deeper, but not sure how. So, for now, I'll stick to the stuff I can see. 

I've got the chassis separated from the body, making it so much easier to focus on getting to parts I need to either replace or clean. So, my focus for the next few weeks is with the chassis. 

40 years of grime have built up. There is at least a 1/4 inch of grease, grime and dirt built up on the floor pan, suspension and steering. Everything in the front end and bottom side is normally not visible, but when the body is off; oh man:

Font steering and suspension before cleaning (view from
trunk) lots of grime here

Driver side front. Super clean now, but rusted. 

For the past few weeks, I've been de-greasing, pressure washing and wire brushing everything. The results of hacking away at 40 years of grime are clean parts. It's nice to see them somewhat restored.

I have removed the tie rods and shocks, steering and heater components. I am currently replacing them with replacement parts and cleaning up what I can salvage.

Many parts are being thoroughly cleaned and painted with high gloss black. The more rusted areas are cleaned and painted with POR 15 paint with makes a strong compound with rust.  Here's what I have so far. Doesn't it look better?

Front suspension and steering components

Rear floor plan and torsion bar

Front passenger wheel assembly

Driver side front floor pan and suspension

VW Stripping-We Need Some Rehab

Ok, my son and I have been watching some great shows on TV about rehabbing classic cars. Shows like Desert Car Kings, Counting Cars, Overhaulin' and a great show from overseas called Beetle Crisis on youtube.com has us excited and motivated to completely overhaul the beetle.

So far I've stripped her down to a body and chassis in the front, removed the dash and entire interior. My plan is to give her a complete cleaning, replace old parts where necessary, and use her as a daily driver.

Here are some of the projects I am working on and will post more details later:

 

Bringing the dashboard to bare metal.

 

Replace some damaged skin.

 

 

Remove and rehab the fuel tank.

 

Remove dash components and clean up under trunk.

 

Convert air vents for use in a bare metal dashboard.

 

Clean and rehab dashboard components and switches.

 

 

 

VW Bug Shows

Taking out and replacing side windows

Brand new rubber
dresses the glass up nicely

 I ordered two seals for my back side windows. The old VW is getting a face lift. Maybe not so much a face lift as a nice shot of BOTOX around the eyes. These new seals look great and will make my bug like new once finished.

After the trial and error experiencing removing both the rear and front glass, I found an easier way to to take out the windows. After pulling of the aluminum trim, cut the old seal all the way through the trim's channel.  Next cut between the window and seal (lift the rubber and slip the carpet knife blade in and slice to meet the cut you made in the channel). This will allow you to remove just the part of the seal holding the window in. Press the window gently from the inside and it should pop out. Next, just remove the old seal.

The channel for the new
aluminum trim

Where it took almost and hour to install the new seal around the back window, I developed a rhythm and method. The second window took about 30 minutes and the third window to 10 minutes. Use the same technique I mentioned earlier. This time you will be able to feel what is right and what works. Practice makes you faster. I'm looking forward to seeing how fast I get the windshield done.